Friday, March 23, 2012

Malta Nostalgia

Valletta, all year round, is at best a very busy city indeed but more so at present. Even more so because she is the middle of having a very drastic face lift to her entrance and its surroundings. So besides the usual busy strides and loud chatter from the commuting public the area is also filled with the sound of jack hammers, banging, workmen yelling instructions and an on going onslaught of activity - still for obvious reasons this area is also concealed behind a 4 metre high wall of boards meant to keep the curious onlookers and the general public safe from falling into the deep trenches while all the digging and building is going on.  So to the creator of this chaotic intruder - of course it is common knowledge to all who live on this little island that this is none other than Renzo Piano's design. This modernist and world renowned architect was awarded the design contract for this golgothan project and to this day has offered so many of us much heated discussion ending in wasted breathe. Still after so much controversy about the impracticality of it and its very modern design, it still has resulted in a drastic reconstruction of the area. Of course I shall not delve further into this topic as this is not the purpose of this blog, therefore I shall just stick to the fact that the work began early last year and is estimated to be finished sometime in 2013/14, though I can stand corrected on these estimates.
 http://www.visitmalta.com/valletta_projects?l=1
So driving into Valletta has taken on a different approach and that is to either drive up to Castille and then proceed down St. Paul's Street and then take a left turn around Archbishop's Street to find your way either heading towards Republic Street or Bakery Str. Or else if you decide to take a more scenic route round the other end of Valletta, one would have to proceed round from below the "Phoenica Hotel" area and then either park on the circular road and catch one of the smaller buses that service Valletta or be brave and drive up and try to come up through the area under Hasting's Gardens. To park in the area means finding a right turn somewhere and then to head up to South Street. Perhaps if you re lucky you may then drive right up to Bakery Street or thereabouts and park in surrounding side streets hoping that you will not come across a unkindly warden.
Times were simple in the past I suppose, but then we always say that to everything in life, that is until one gets used to the new system. As I am the eternal optimist I hope that this will eventually all make sense and that once again I may visit Valletta with a little less hassle. I must admit because of all this visiting Valletta has become a rarity for me. My weekly visit has turned into a monthly one and now that winter is finally turning a corner I feel that perhaps I may venture in once again. I miss those noble streets with its beautiful façades and long streets that give you a peep of the sea at the far end. Life has a habit of dictating things and so I look forward to the time when I can visit again soon.
So at it is obvious that I have not ventured much into Valletta this time, I have nothing new to report. So for all you Valletta lovers I have added as many recent photos of Valletta as I could find in my files.- Here they are a collection of Valletta in quieter times.... Enjoy












































Tuesday, February 22, 2011

What's new this month

Art and culture in the city for gentlemen...
So what's new for these coming months in Valletta? 

The varied history of Valletta is evidence enough of how a city can shoulder on in high times and low times. That is Valletta has seen brave days, sad, dark days, and happy times too and once again like a phoenix, despite the situation in the world, despite no money circulating - wars or no wars, uprisings or no uprisings, the world still goes round in this noble city, likewise in the world of art. Therefore the show must go on and so all exhibitions will go on show.

This month sees the opening of the much anticipated and renowned Alphonse Mucha  exhibition, entitled 'In Quest For Beauty'. Housed at the National Museum of Archaeology in Republic Street in the elegant 'Salon', this establishment will open its doors to the public as of 25th February all the way through to 15th May 2011. This is a chance in a life time for those who do not have the opportunity to  travel aboard to view exhibitions, but who still love and appreciate anything of beauty and worth. 
The works of Alphonse Mucha (Czech Art Nouveau Printmaker, 1860-1939) are inspired by all things beautiful and natural and of course also portray a period in art history that will forever be associated with fantasy, freedom and inspiration. A period in time when the artist was finally given the full go ahead to break away with tradition. In fact a time when even the impressionists were finally accepted and their works appreciated.  This exhibition promises to be ' a major exhibition featuring a selection of over one hundred works, including paintings, lithographs, sculpture, jewelery, photographs, drawings and other artifacts.'


Kenneth Gambin, the national agency’s chief curator explained how this vernissage  came about, that is while he was searching for a high level exhibition he came across these works and then went on to contact the Mucha Foundation in Prague.
Heritage Malta has prepared a catalogue exploring the impact of Art Nouveau in Malta and makes a great souvenir of this worthwhile exhibition.

Alphonse Mucha 1860-1939, 
will be showcased at the Salon of the National Museum of Archaeology in Republic Street, Valletta between February 25 and May15 2011.
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Other Exhibitions in Valletta these coming months


19 February – 20 March 2011
Face Value
A retrospective exhibition of paintings by artist Madeleine Gera at the Contemporary Exhibitions Hall, National Museum of Fine Arts, South Street, Valletta. Free entrance. Open Monday to Friday 09:00hrs till 16:30hrs (Last Admission 16:00hrs)

23 February
Art & Wine @ South Street
The first session of the third edition in the series of Art & Wine @ South Street promising interesting discussions over a glass of wine at the National Museum of Fine Arts, South Street, Valletta.

25 February to 15 May
In quest of beauty: Alphonse Mucha 1860-1939
An exhibition of artworks by this world renowned Czech artist, including paintings, lithographs, sculpture, jewellery, photographs, drawings and other artefacts, at the Salon of the National Museum of Archaeology, Valletta.  Further information will be available in the media closer to the date.

28 February
Jewellery in Malta during the Knights Period
A lecture by Francesca Balzan organized by the Malta Branch of the Sovereign Military Order of Malta at the National Museum of Fine Arts, Valletta.  Lecture is open to the general public. Free entrance. 

March  
Solidarity, Opportunity, Cooperation: Exhibiting projects funded by EEA-Norway Grants 2004-2009 through school pupils’ artistic renditions, Exhibition in the lobby of the National Museum of Archaeology organized by the Maltese Focal Point for the EEA and Norwegian Financial Mechanisms, the Planning and Priorities Co-ordination Division within OPM, of secondary school students’ artistic renditions of projects funded by the EEA-Norway Grants 2004-2009.  Projects to be exhibited include the Conservation of Hal Saflieni Hypogeum World Heritage Site which involved the non-invasive 3D Documentation of the Hal Saflieni Hypogeum underground complex. 

4-9 March
Carnivart
Activities related to Carnival including hands-on activities for the whole family and guided tours. At the National Museum of Fine Arts, South Street, Valletta.  More details will be available on the website.

March
Art & Wine @ South Street
The second session of the third edition in the series of Art & Wine @ South Street promising interesting discussions over a glass of wine at the National Museum of Fine Arts, South Street, Valletta.

26 March – 1 May
Home
An exhibition of paintings by artists Michael von Cube and Giuseppe Schembri Bonaci at the Contemporary Exhibitions Hall, National Museum of Fine Arts, South Street, Valletta. Free entrance. Open Monday to Friday 09:00hrs till 16:30hrs (Last Admission 16:00hrs)

March
Albert Ganado Commemorative Exhibition
Exhibition at the National Museum of Fine Arts, South Street,Valletta. Open Monday to Friday 09:00hrs till 16:30hrs (Last Admission 16:00hrs)

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TOWN SQUARE - Art Rambles


'Sweet' Memories

As a child in the 60's, every couple of weeks, my brothers and I were treated to a visit into Valletta by my maternal aunt - Getting there though was always an adventure - It all began fittingly with a short ride on a 'Karozzin'. My aunt would bundle us all on to this horse drawn carriage down to the  Spinola bus terminus and then we would catch a rickety bus from there. The ride along the coast all the way to Valletta, was part of the fun of this outing. Still it somehow always started with a squabble between my brothers, as to who would sit next to the sliding window, on the humped wheel guard at the back of the bus.(Looking back only a child could have enjoyed such a joy ride, as the glass panes would rattle perilously and loudly, adding to the infernal din of the exposed steaming and whistling bus engine. Plus anyone seated here would randomly be thrown up off the seat as the bus would hit the potholed roads at varying speeds - this according to how quickly the bus driver felt inclined to get his day over.)

To keep us quiet though my brave aunt sometimes kept a steady flow of treats coming, things like Twistees, or barley sugar sticks which we sucked to a very dangerous point, or chocolate 'Treats' and a pear/peach juice from a glass bottle or a Kinnie. When we got off the bus at Valletta we would wander around the terminus, first to look at the 'Triton Fountain' and then if no goodies had been provided on the bus, it was off to the 'milk-stand' at the entrance to the City Gate for a milkshake in a disposable triangular-shaped container with a straw - either strawberry or banana yum... and if it was summer a Granita was in order - almond, lemon or strawberry to dig out with a little wooden spoon like stick. Walking through Valletta with our goodies in hand was fun, as we would stop at all the toy shops and look in at the things we would have liked to have for Christmas, Birthdays etc the lists were endless.. then after a trip to the Upper Barraka to see the magnificent ships and the breathtaking view of the Grand Harbour we rounded this visit here with an exciting ride down and up again in the large metal lift. Now dismantled, this lift once took sight-seers and sailors, up and down from/to the Grand Harbour - then finally it was off to Cordina - sometimes for a 'pasta' which in real terms meant a sweet cake or for a savoury cheesecake called 'pastizzi', accompanied by a 7up float to wash it all down. This would be the end of the day's outing but of course our 'Valletta outing' was never the same schedule.

So at this point it would be a shame not to mention the occasional stop off at various other respected establishments in this wonderful city - in fact one fashionable outlet "Blackley's" confectioner's - was known for its scrumptious doughnuts, cream buns and cream doughnuts - the smell was unique, and I have yet to find a place that can rival the smell of the these divine buns. These cakes bring back fond memories of my grand father, all dressed up in his white suit, donning his panama hat to match, all chic and smart walking along with us little rascals as we plastered our faces against shop windows and saying 'can I have?' or 'I need...', all along Valletta - once again with my aunt in tow. Still to buy these lovely cakes then, was a expedition in itself. So many beautiful old fashioned wooden-fronted shops - elegantly painted in either red, or blue, or green, or black with original hand-painted signs, finished in gold lettering - most holding tantalizing morsels, either savory and sweet... or clothing, jewelry and anything fine and fit for a gentleman of class.

Another must visit was to 'Croce' confectioners almost on the corner of Merchant's Street, on the steps of Britiannia Street, for those little melt-in-the mouth almond cakes, with a shiny ruby or emerald cherry on top or else the almond macaroons with a rice paper bottom - heaven. Then just a few metres down the road, a stop at 'Albion' this time to tick off something my grandmother required. 'Albion' a unique shop in Valletta even in all of Malta in those days, with its mystical smells of the east, - a haven of spices and essences and anything to do with baking and cooking, all items imported through the best merchants, promising a perfect result every time you conjured your homemade dessert. It was Christmas, Easter and Carnival all year round in this little treasure.

Finally, the last but not least, was that wonderful 'Green Cake' from Camilleri's cake shop further down the road in Merchant's street. A glistening and sticky coated cake, with a thin layer of light green marzipan, sitting on a secret creamy center put together on a light soft sponge base. What memories, what wonderful nostalgic times. Of course, rose tinted glasses always help to make the memory seem more romantic, but at face value I would have to say that these were and are very special and sweet memories indeed. A memory of smiling, sticky smiles and warm hugs and happy days. - and you're probably thinking 'How Sweet'.






http://www.unescomalta.org/index.asp